The author makes a good point that it's important to define what "a good simulation" means.
On one extreme, we cannot even solve the underlying physics equations for single atoms beyond hydrogen, let alone molecules, let alone complex proteins, etc. etc. all the way up to cells and neuron clusters. So that level of "good" seems enormously far off.
On the other hand, there are lots of useful approximations to be made.
If it looks like a duck and quacks like a duck, is it a duck?
If it squidges like a nematode and squirms like a nematode, is it a [simulation of a] nematode?
(if it talks like a human and makes up answers like a human, is it a human? ;)